Swap the scorching coast for the Troodos Mountains, with their pine forests, monasteries and mountain villages. An overview of the most beautiful places in the Switzerland of Cyprus, with tips on planning a trip to the mountains.
Cyprus is not just an island of beaches. In the heart of the island rise the Troodos Mountains, where dense forests meet picturesque villages, monasteries and a rich history. The mountains are almost entirely in the south of the island – in the north there is only the narrower Kyrenia range above the town of the same name.
The highest mountain in Cyprus, Olympos, is 1,952 m high. Below the summit lies the small Troodos resort with a few tavernas and shops, from where waymarked trails lead through pine forests.
In summer it is several degrees cooler here than by the sea, which is why Troodos is called the Switzerland of Cyprus. In winter snow falls and you can ski on the slopes of Olympos.
From the seaside resorts, allow an hour to an hour and a half’s drive along winding mountain roads. Take an extra layer of clothing – it tends to be much cooler up there. The summit itself is a military area; you can enjoy the views from the trails around it.
A circular trail around the summit of Olympos, about 7 km long, with views over the countryside and ancient pine trees.
On the slopes of Olympos the lifts are usually open from about January to March, depending on the snow.
On the mountainside, wrapped in pine forests, stands Kykkos Monastery, founded in the 11th century. Its centrepiece is the church with the icon of the Virgin Kykkotissa, revered as the protector of the island, with beautiful frescoes, mosaics and a richly decorated iconostasis.
The monastery is not only a religious centre but also a guardian of Cypriot tradition – it houses a library of rare manuscripts and a museum with unique collections.
The dress code is strict – shoulders and knees must be covered. There is an entrance fee for the museum; check the opening hours before you go, as they tend to be shorter in winter.
A collection of icons, manuscripts and church treasures that brings the monastery’s rich history to life.
Taste Cypriot honey from the monastery’s apiary and take a walk along the trails in the surrounding forests.
Just a few kilometres above Kykkos Monastery, on the hill of Throni, lies the tomb of Archbishop Makarios III, the first president of Cyprus, who started out as a novice at Kykkos. Above the tomb stands a small Orthodox church, and from the top there is a view of the rolling ridges of Troodos.
A short climb leads from the tomb to the church. Be quiet and respectful at the tomb – it is an important place for Cypriots.
A large statue of the archbishop guards the road to the top and is a popular photo spot.
The hill offers one of the most beautiful views of the forests and ridges of Troodos.
The Kaledonia waterfall, about 13 m high, is one of the highest in Cyprus. A forest trail leads to it along a stream between plane trees and alders; it is pleasantly shady in summer and refreshing on a hot day.
The trail is stony and crosses the stream in places – wear sturdy shoes. Expect to return the same way, or arrange a lift.
Another waterfall near the village of Platres, reached by a short walk.
Near the trail there are tavernas that also serve fresh trout from local fish farms.
Scattered across the mountain villages are ten small Byzantine churches and monasteries with beautiful frescoes, which are listed together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From the outside these modest buildings with steep wooden roofs look unremarkable, but inside they hide paintings that are several hundred years old.
The churches tend to be small and are often unlocked by a local caretaker – check the opening hours. Photography inside is usually not allowed, and clothing should cover your shoulders and knees.
A church near Kakopetria with a steep roof and frescoes from different centuries.
A church near the village of Lagoudera with some of the most beautiful frescoes in Troodos.
Hidden among the greenery are picturesque villages with narrow lanes and stone houses, where life moves at a slow pace. Wine-growing Omodos has a cobbled square with the Monastery of the Holy Cross, Kakopetria has well-preserved old lanes above the river and Platres has always been a popular summer retreat from the heat.
In the mountain tavernas try grilled meats, halloumi cheese and local wine. Cash comes in handy – not everywhere takes cards.
Wine is grown around Omodos – stop for a tasting at a local winery.
In Platres or Kakopetria you will find smaller hotels, from which you can set off on several trips.
Car: the best way to get to the mountains is by hire car. You will find tips on driving on the left in the article Driving in South Cyprus.
Mountain roads: journeys tend to be slower than the number of kilometres suggests. From Limassol it is about an hour to the Troodos resort, longer from Paphos and Larnaca.
Clothing: it tends to be cooler in the mountains than by the sea – take an extra layer, comfortable shoes and, for the monasteries, clothing that covers your shoulders and knees.
When to go: spring and autumn are the most pleasant. In summer the mountains are a relief from the heat, and in winter snow awaits.
Trips I recommend as a tour rep. You book through GetYourGuide and the guides mostly speak English.
Best by hire car – from Limassol it is about an hour to the Troodos resort, longer from Paphos and Larnaca. Organised excursions also go to the mountains.
Spring and autumn are the most pleasant. In summer the mountains are a relief from the heat by the sea, and in winter snow awaits.
Yes, on the slopes of Olympos the lifts are usually open from about January to March, depending on the snow.
Shoulders and knees must be covered. This also applies to the painted churches and other monasteries in the mountains.
Kykkos Monastery, the tomb of Makarios III at Throni, the area around the summit of Olympos, the Kaledonia waterfall, the UNESCO painted churches and the village of Omodos.
Troodos is a great reason to leave the beach for a few days. Let the mountain landscape enchant you, discover the island’s history and experience the hospitality of the locals.
